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K-Beauty: The Culture Behind the Cosmetics

Writer: Mark Wells
Mark Wells
22 hours ago
11 min read

I did not go to Korea to discover that the country leads the skincare world. That much I already knew, the way anyone running a company in this industry knows it — it is the water we swim in. I went, with my wife Iryna, for three weeks, mostly by train between Seoul and Busan, wanting nothing more complicated than time together, away from the business. What I came home with was not a discovery of K-beauty. It was a correction. I had assumed, the way most of this industry quietly assumes, that Korea's skincare dominance produced Korea's wellness culture — that the serums came first and the discipline followed. Three weeks on the ground reversed that arrow completely. The industry did not build the culture. The culture, older and deeper and largely invisible from a product shelf, built the industry, and is still building it, every single day, whether or not a single new serum ever launches again.


The arrow I had pointing the wrong way


Here is the assumption I walked in with, and I think most of my industry walks in with it too, even the people who would deny it if you asked directly: Korea makes great skincare, and great skincare habits followed from great skincare products. Better formulations, more sophisticated routines, a population trained by good marketing into good behavior. It is a flattering story for people like me, because it means the thing I sell is the engine. It took about four days in Busan to understand how backwards that was.


We went to the beach the way you go to any beach — towels, the expectation of skin in the sun. What we found instead stopped me cold. Old and young alike were covered, wrist to ankle, wide-brimmed hats pulled low, and a genuinely large share of the people on that sand — not a curious minority, a real share of the crowd — wearing cloth masks across their faces in the middle of a hot afternoon, for no reason except to keep the sun off. The only bodies laid flat in direct light, skin bare, chasing color, belonged to tourists. You could spot them from the boardwalk before you ever heard them speak. I remember standing there thinking: this is not a skincare routine. Nobody here is thinking about their serum right now. This is closer to a religion, and the products I sell are, at best, a minor sacrament in a practice that runs infinitely deeper than my shelf.


A country that treats your comfort as everyone's business


The moment that reorganized everything else I saw happened on a train, not the beach. We sat in a car of roughly fifty people, and it was utterly silent — not enforced, not posted, just understood. When someone needed to take a call, they stood, walked to the gap between cars, and spoke there, out of respect for fifty strangers they would never see again and owed nothing to by any American definition of obligation. Nobody was watching to enforce it. Nobody needed to. I sat with that for the rest of the trip, because once that principle registers, you cannot stop finding it everywhere it hides.


I want to say something specific about the trains themselves, because we lived on them for three weeks and they told me something the beach and the food never could. Korean public transportation runs like a clock — not approximately, not usually, but to the minute, trip after trip, across an entire national network. A train scheduled to depart at 9:14 departs at 9:14. That is not a small logistical fact. It is a form of respect made structural: a whole system engineered around the idea that your time, and everyone else's time, is not something to be casually wasted. The same restraint that keeps a train car silent is the discipline that keeps the train itself honest to the minute. Punctuality, at that scale, sustained that consistently, is not an accident of good engineering. It is a value wearing an engineering costume.


A landscape that asks you to slow down and look at it


Traveling by train rather than flying or driving gave us something I did not expect: an uninterrupted, ground-level view of the country itself, for hours at a time, window to window. And Korea is staggeringly beautiful in a way I was not prepared for. Mountains fold into valleys and back into mountains again, green and steep and close together, and then, without much warning, the land opens into agricultural fields that seem to run to the edge of the horizon — rice paddies terraced into hillsides, vegetable rows laid out with the same quiet precision as everything else we saw. Iryna and I stopped talking, more than once, just to watch it go by. There is something in that landscape — the discipline of terracing a mountainside instead of abandoning it, the patience of farming land that difficult for generations — that felt like the same ethic we saw on the train and at the beach, just written onto the earth instead of onto a face. A culture that will terrace a mountain rather than waste it is not a culture that is going to treat a sunburn as a minor inconvenience either.


Honor, running in three directions at once


The word that kept surfacing for me, the longer we were there, was honor — not as a slogan, but as something structural, running in three directions at once. Honor for the past showed up in the deep, unforced respect for elders I mentioned earlier, and in how seriously tradition was treated, not as costume for tourists but as a living, daily practice.


Honor for the present showed up in that train-car silence, in the water handed out freely, in a level of consideration for the stranger standing next to you that never once felt performed. And honor for the future showed up in things I did not expect to read as beauty culture at all: the sun avoidance itself, which is really nothing more than a bet on the skin you will have in thirty years over the tan you could have this afternoon; the diet, which trades an easy processed meal now for a body that holds up decades later; the walkable, vertical cities, built for a population that will still be living in them long after the people who designed them are gone. Skincare, in that light, stopped looking like a category to me and started looking like one more expression of a single national habit: taking the long view, on purpose, in public, every day.


The honest part — they are not saints, and I don't want to write them as one


I want to resist turning this into a postcard, because a postcard is not honest and it would insult the people we actually met. The Korean people we encountered were, on the whole, remarkably educated, kind, and thoughtful — conversations with strangers were generous, patient, often better informed about the world than conversations I have at home. But it would be dishonest to leave it there. There was also, at times, a real impatience — in traffic, in a crowded subway transfer, in a line that was not moving fast enough — a sharper edge that could surface quickly and just as quickly disappear. I don't think that contradicts anything else in this essay. I think it is the same intensity, the same seriousness about how things ought to be done, showing its other face. A culture this disciplined about restraint in public is not a culture without pressure underneath it. The politeness is not the absence of feeling. It is the management of it, in public, for the sake of everyone else in the room — which is, when I actually write it out, the entire thesis of this essay applied to temperament instead of skin.


What was actually on the table


I want to be specific here, because vague praise for "Korean food" is exactly the kind of flat, borrowed language I want to avoid. Breakfast in Korea did not look like breakfast in the U.S. It looked like doenjang-jjigae, a fermented soybean paste stew, or kongnamul-guk, a bean sprout soup meant to reset the body — not a pastry, not cereal, not anything sweet. Lunch might be sundubu-jjigae, a fiery, custard-soft tofu stew, or bibimbap, rice buried under a fan of sauteed vegetables, gochujang, and a single egg, everything in balance rather than piled on top of a single starch the way an American plate is built.


Dinner regularly meant galbi or bulgogi grilled at the table itself, surrounded by a small army of banchan — fermented radish, sesame spinach, dried anchovies, at least one kimchi and often three — refilled without being asked, so that a meal was never one dish but a constellation of small, deliberate ones. On the coast in Busan, we ate miyeok-guk, a seaweed soup traditionally eaten on birthdays for its mineral density, and grilled mackerel bought an hour earlier off a boat. Rice, when it appeared, was a supporting player — a small bowl, not the meal. Bread was almost entirely absent. Dairy nearly nonexistent. And none of this was restriction. People ate generously, multiple courses, real hunger satisfied in full. What was different was never the amount. It was the architecture of the plate itself — fermented, mineral-rich, seafood-forward, built by a food culture that predates the word wellness by centuries and has never once needed the word to justify itself.


Layered under all of it was movement that had nothing to do with a gym membership: stairs, train platforms built assuming you will move briskly through them, cities laid out at the scale of a walking body rather than a windshield. None of this was performed as self-care. It was simply Tuesday, repeated for a lifetime, compounding in ways no single serum could ever touch.


The numbers that stopped being anecdotes


I will say this plainly, because I think politeness has let the industry avoid saying it: across tens of thousands of Korean people, over three weeks, on trains, in markets, at that beach, we saw almost no one who was overweight. Not none — but strikingly, consistently few, and the exceptions were reliably tourists, identifiable before they spoke. This is not, I want to be careful to say, genetic destiny dressed up as a cultural observation. It is diet, density, daily movement, and a fermented, seafood-forward food culture compounding across an entire population's lifetime without anyone experiencing it as effort.


I found myself counting cars with the same obsessive attention, because the pattern refused to let me look away. White, black, gray — nearly everything on the road, no chrome, nothing built to be looked at rather than simply used. Roughly nine in ten cars were Hyundai or Kia. A sliver were BMW or Mercedes. A striking majority — by my own rough count, comfortably above eighty percent — were electric or hybrid. Most people lived stacked vertically, in dense apartment communities, rather than sprawled horizontally the way most American metros insist on. I am not a city planner and won't pretend otherwise. But a society that restrains itself down to the color of its cars is the same society that restrains itself on a beach and in a train car. It is one coherent ethic, worn in five different places, not five coincidences I happened to collect on vacation.


Mind, body, and spirit — woven, not stacked


Here is the reframe I actually came home with, the one I think matters more than any single observation on its own: in the U.S., wellness is something we schedule — a workout block, a skincare step, a therapy appointment, a meditation app, each one bought separately and stacked on top of an otherwise unchanged life. In Korea, what we watched for three weeks was not a stack of separately purchased wellness behaviors. It was one unbroken fabric: the silence on the train is the same respect that covers a stranger's grandmother's face from the sun; the seaweed soup on a birthday is the same reverence for the body that shows up as sunscreen applied without being asked; the safety that lets a woman walk alone at midnight is the same safety that lets an entire population actually live outdoors instead of merely aspiring to. Mind, body, and spirit were not three wellness pillars printed on a spa menu. They were one undivided way of being in public, and skincare was simply the layer of that fabric closest to the surface, the part easiest to bottle and ship.


Where the actual K-beauty industry sits inside all of this


Iryna and I watched this part with different eyes — hers clinical, mine as someone who has built a business in this exact category. We did not find dermatology clinics stacked on every corner the way some of the popular writing led us to expect. We found something more interesting: retail skincare everywhere, block after block, a population genuinely curious rather than sold to, browsing new formulas the way you might browse a farmers market rather than a pharmacy. The clinical side exists and is respected, but it was not the dominant visual language of the street. The dominant visual language was something else entirely, and it is the detail I keep returning to: in the evenings, under streetlight, we kept seeing skin that seemed to hold light rather than simply reflect it — a faint, deliberate glow, sometimes with a whitish cast, that I later learned has a name in the beauty press, "glass skin," but which I encountered first with no name at all, just the plain, strange sense that someone had let water sit on their face on purpose and called it beautiful.


I think that glow is the whole essay in miniature. A population that has spent generations actively refusing direct sun exposure is always going to end up prizing skin that looks luminous and undamaged, because that is, quite literally, what unbroken skin looks like after decades of real protection rather than years of correction. The whitening and brightening aesthetic is not a taste invented by a marketing department. It is the visible residue of the beach behavior. The glass-skin look is not a separate preference either — it is what skin looks like on a population eating doenjang and seaweed and grilled mackerel instead of bread, walking instead of driving, for an entire lifetime. The product on the shelf is the last link in a chain that starts generations earlier, in a shade, at a dinner table, on a silent train. You can buy the last link. You cannot buy the chain.


The part I most need to say plainly, even though it costs my own industry something


If you buy the serum — the exact brightening cream we watched glow under those Busan streetlights — and change nothing else about how you live, I do not believe you get the real result. You get a rented version of the surface effect, one that fades the moment you stop reapplying it, and you will need to keep buying more, more often, to hold on to even that much. I sell these products for a living. I would rather tell you the truth about their ceiling than sell you a shortcut I know does not exist.


The product does real work — more work, in fact — layered onto a life that already avoids the sun and already eats in a way that protects the skin barrier, because now it is reinforcing a foundation instead of trying to substitute for one that was never built. A serum fighting a diet built on processed carbohydrates, unprotected sun exposure, and a sedentary, car-bound life is fighting a battle it will never fully win, and will keep charging you to keep losing slowly. The same serum, laid over the life we watched for three weeks, is simply finishing a job that fermentation, seafood, movement, and shade already did most of the heavy lifting on. That is the honest relationship, and I think it is worth saying clearly, at real cost to my own sales narrative, because I would rather build a company people can actually trust than one more shelf of shortcuts.


What I am building differently because of this


It would be easy, running a company at the intersection of skincare and technology, to keep telling the industry's favorite version of this story — ingredients to license, steps to translate, another bottle promising the Busan glow with none of the three weeks of walking, shade, and shared soup behind it. This trip did not give me a better marketing angle. It gave me a conviction I did not have walking in: that the sun-avoidance, the fermented, seafood-built diet, the daily unscheduled movement, the honor running from the past into the future, and the quiet, constant deference to the person standing next to you are not separate from the beauty result. They are the beauty result, expressed slowly, over years, in a register no bottle can shortcut. I would rather spend my career building toward that whole, woven thing — lifestyle and product honestly presented as two different things that only fully work together — than keep selling the fraction of it that happens to fit in a jar.


— Mark Wells, CEO, Hihikats International Inc., parent company of Lazuk Esthetics

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